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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.